The Alaskan Malamute Club

The Alaskan Malamute Club

of The United Kingdom

WORKING INFORMATION

BACKPACKING

Working Pack Dog Titles

The AMCUK are hoping to give members the chance to qualify their dogs for the Working Pack Dog title offered by the Alaskan Malamute Club of America.

Our plan is to run 30 mile routes with an overnight camp during late autumn and spring each year, subject to weather conditions. This will be on a trail to be decided in the Lake District under the supervision and guidance of Martin Hall who is qualified to lead such groups.

We want to offer alternative venues in the UK as well as other options such as 10 mile trails without a camp which will mean the dog needs to complete 4 routes to qualify. Any members who can suggest suitable routes for backpacking, please contact the committee. Hopefully we will in time be able to offer opportunities for groups throughout the UK.

Full information is available below which includes training guidelines for yourself and your dog as well as essential equipment you will need. Good quality backpacks will be available for purchase through the Club.

BACKPACKING GUIDE

1. The Working Malamute: Introduction

Backpacking is a great way to spend quality time with your Malamute and to give you and your dog a challenging and rewarding experience. It helps to develop that strong bond of companionship that is so important to a Malamute and, let’s face it, we all love to get outdoors and have fun with our dogs. Sharing activities with your Malamute will give him the opportunity to prove himself as an eager worker as well as providing help and companionship for the active outdoors person.

Recognising that not everyone is interested in working their dogs in the conventional sense (and somewhat competitive way!) at rallies, the Alaskan Malamute Club of the United Kingdom felt they would like to offer members the opportunity of gaining recognised pack working titles for their dogs.

In the mid 1970’s the Alaskan Malamute Club of America developed a Working Dog Certification programme to encourage people to work their dogs. Certificates may be earned for sledding, weight pulling and packing. This is not a competitive program, rather a programme that recognizes a certain level of achievement in these fields. Any interested Malamute owner should be able to attain certification at this level with a season of basic training and conditioning. The equipment needs are minimal, especially if you already a keen walker.

Dogs that have fulfilled the requirements for a working dog title are eligible to compete in the Working Dog classes at speciality shows in the States. Whilst this does not apply in the United Kingdom, many people will still wish to honour their dogs achievements by gaining certification in this way and firmly distinguish themselves as a “working Malamute”. Who knows we may yet see a British dog in the Working Dog Hall of Fame. The Hall of Fame award recognizes dogs who have been outstanding working dogs throughout their lives or who have distinguished themselves in some working event. Some of the Inductees into the Working Dog Hall of Fame have distinguished themselves on the Admiral Byrd Antartic expeditions of the 1930’s, one was the first known Alaskan Malamute to run and complete the Iditarod, and several others distinguished themselves as outstanding weight pullers.

2. Planning a trip

Before we go any further, perhaps now is a good time to ask yourself a few searching questions! There are some essential points to consider as you prepare for a packing trip. You should:-

Assess your own level of fitness – are you fit and healthy and capable of walking over a distance of 10 miles or a long distance walk over two days of 30 miles? Get yourself in training.
Assess your dog’s abilities – is your dog fit and healthy? A Malamute should be capable if packing over this distance without too much difficulty as they are truly the work horse of the sled dog world. However, have a good look at your dog - if your dog is content with a sofa existence then you can’t expect him to suddenly accept a challenge of this kind. He needs training and you will need to get him into shape if he is carrying extra weight.
Know your own dog’s limitations – a young dog is always keen but often too keen so be careful not to over do it. You need to consider if your dog is coming up to pension age whether he will cope with a long distance trek in the same way he could a few years ago when he was “nobbut a lad”. A fit mature dog should be capable but will still need training over several months to get him fit for the challenge and build up his stamina.
On your first few trips keep it simple by doing a low level walk over good grassy terrain and build up the distances gradually and then move onto some walks with a variable terrain with some height attached to it. We live in a beautiful country that has much to offer whether it is coastal walks, mountains, moors, and forests. So head into the countryside and get off the black stuff (tarmac).
As a precaution, if you are out packing on your own as part of your training programme, tell someone where you are going and the route you have planned, check the weather forecast, take a map and compass, and mobile (although don’t expect them to work everywhere). If you can’t read a map or use a compass then ask someone to show you how to as sometimes a trail can become pretty featureless and a track might not be marked clearly on a map so you need to use your head.
An ideal walk will have lots of watering holes so plan ahead by choosing a walk that has plenty of streams and that is suitable for varying weather conditions. Know what sort of terrain you can expect to encounter before you set off. Your dog’s feet should be in a hard condition.
You will need some good walking boots or trail shoes, and a certain amount of kit. With boots you will soon know about it if you haven’t broken them in as blisters can be a pain!
The dog pack itself – make sure it fits correctly and when you are selecting your pack think about whether it will take the weight and punishment you and your dog will through at it. You want it to last.

OK so think you are up for it …… read on.

3. Getting yourself into shape

Start by setting yourself realistic goals. Give your training the priority it deserves on your “to do” list.

Allow approximately a 16 week training period, and build up your intended long distance walk mileage from your normal walk mileage gradually by adding 1-2 miles per week. When you first add extra distance to your walk, make it less hilly and over less difficult terrain, until you get used to it. Find out about the terrain and practice for it. If it is hilly or boggy underfoot, include this terrain in your training walks.

4. Training your Malamute to pack

The dog should be obedience trained in the basics of walking to heel by your side. It is important that you have a degree of confidence that you are not going to be pulled over when he spots a sheep or rabbit in his midst, particularly if you are on high and uneven ground. I use a command “heel”.

He should know a command to walk out in front of you without pulling. I use a command “steady”. In fact “steady or easy” is a good watch word used a lot but don’t over use it so that the dog becomes immune to it. Equally he should know to go behind if you come upon a narrow trail and not try to push past you. Equally, he should be able to pull on command though when you need a hand to slog up any hills and I give ours the same command I use on the rig “hike on” or “let’s go”.

It’s a fact of life that some dogs are more sure footed than others. We have a couple of mountain goats that can find their way over rough stuff and scramble up just about anything, but another one who is a bit more cautious so takes his time and finds his own way. If your dog is frightened of the water, introduce him to it gradually rather than expect he will suddenly be happy to cross over a stretch of water as may be required if a stream has swollen up. Get your dog used to walking over wooden foot bridges and stepping stones. Some dogs don’t like the sensation of duck boarding especially if it has been wrapped with a non-slip wire surface. I suppose if your dog has not been exposed to all the trappings of walking in the countryside you need to know what might cause your dog to become scared. I would never force my dog to do something he is clearly frightened of.

My dogs are all trained to jump wooden stiles, wall stiles and negotiate stock stoops with little aid from me but it can be a tricky operation with packs on. Try to plan your walk to avoid these as much as possible as it is no fun if you are left in a situation where your dog will not jump a stile and you have to lift it over (that is if you can pick him up in the first place!). Lifting and carrying a dog over a stile can cause it to panic and lose confidence. A quick release backpack can be a real bonus should you need to remove it to assist you dog over or under an obstacle.

Before you do any backpacking get him used to walking the sort of distances you will be asking of him. Build muscle on to your dog by upping his exercise. Your dog’s feet need to be toughened and conditioned for walking on all sorts of terrain. It is important that you do some road work to get your dogs feet conditioned. They should have the feel of sand paper. Jogging with your dog is also a good way to get his feet conditioned. Rough packed granite trails can be very hard on dog’s feet and can easily tear up dog boots. If you are thinking about walking on this terrain then I would introduce your dog to dog boots and get him used to wearing them, and pack them with you in case you find you need them.

Now for getting him used to wearing the pack. Your dog must feel comfortable wearing his pack as he will be wearing it all day. A mature Malamute is capable of comfortably carrying 30% of his body weight all day PROVIDED

a) He is in good physical condition

b) On a well balanced diet

c) He is used to carrying the weight.

Therefore if your dog weighs 40 kilos he will carry 12 kilos including the weight of the pack. In pounds that is 88 lbs (6 stone 4 lbs) and he will be carrying 26.4 lbs (1 stone 13 lb). Don’t try to guess what your dog weighs – take him to the vets and get him weighed.

Dogs from about 9 months can start to wear a pack and can be very light packed but I suggest they don’t start to carry weight other than the pack until they are 12 months and start to build up the weight. Fill the packs with bulky light items giving the dog the feel of a full load with a minimum of weight. As your dog gets into good condition, slow increase the weight but I wouldn’t contemplate a long distance trek carrying 30% of their weight until they are 18 months.

Start off by just getting him used to wearing the pack. Some people start by just laying a towel over the back but that is for small puppies and I haven’t had any negative reaction from any of my dogs when they were young and of a size to take a pack by just wearing the pack unloaded. Place it on gently and let him investigate what it is and get used to it. Let him walk around inside the house and garden. Go out for short walks in the park with just the pack on. It will feel a bit strange for the dog at first as he will brush up against walls or lampposts, until he gets used to having a wide load on. He will eventually stop banging into things.

I then start by adding a bit of weight in the form of either a rolled up towel or light jacket. Use something soft that is not going to rattle about in the pack. Then over time I add weight by adding a water bottle to each side. Then add sachets of food or biscuits. It is important to make sure the weight is evenly distributed as otherwise the load will shift and this will be hard on the dog. Keep items such as bottles away from the dog’s sides and put softer things like towels and clothing close to dog. I also use water bladders in our panniers which you can buy quite cheaply now.

I try to work on the basis of going up in increments of 5% of his weight at a time. An average pack itself weighs approximately 1-1.5 kg so wearing the pack unloaded on it’s own as the starting weight for a week or two is enough and then I go up by adding 2 kilos every one to two weeks over a period of approximately 8-12 weeks during which time I am increasing the distance of the walk, until I reach 30% of his body weight. Then I maintain that weight on walks and stretch out the distance of the walk a bit further and vary the types of walks. A pack weighing 30% of a dog’s body weight will appear much lighter on the flat than going up hill, so I get some hill work in once the dog is in condition.

The other important thing to mention is how your dog will behave in camp if you plan to do an overnight trek with him. How is he with other dogs in reasonable close proximity? Only a well socialised dog will be able to enjoy the experience of an overnight camp. So he will be tired and that should ease any tension but you want to make it as stress free for yourself so think about how your dog will cope with this situation. May be get him used to being tied out on a line with a stake when you are visiting other mally friends or on get togethers. The other thing, of course, is how noisy he will be in camp? Too much noise will upset other backpackers and campers and you may not get invited back. I know that our rescue dog finds this very difficult and it is something we are working on, but try to find what works best for you to control this situation.

5. Equipment for the dog

You will need a good quality back pack. The AMCUK have imported Wenaha backpacks which are available through the merchandise officer – contact Sam Walker for details http://www.alaskanmalamute.org.uk/ContactUs.htm

The back pack is made of two panniers that sit on a saddle or harness. It is important that the bag fits correctly. If the pack sags it will rub the dog’s elbows. If it sits too low down over the mid back it is not getting support from the shoulders. If it is too small and sits too high on top of the dog it may rub the back and cause saddle sores. It should be a snug but not tight fit, and it should not be too big so that it moves about too much. It’s a good idea to test the pack fully loaded to see that the dog can move freely, with no binding or chafing anywhere.

Your lead can attach to the collar although I prefer a pack with a D ring fitted on the backpack over the centre of the dog’s shoulders so that I can attach a lead to this. I also like the packs that have ventilation holes in the saddle/harness so that this allows air to get to the dog to prevent overheating. Not all packs are waterproof so if your dog is going to swim with it on make sure you wrap anything you want to keep dry in a sealable plastic bag. One important thing is the pack needs to be capable of being released quickly so check that it has quick release buckles as this is a great help when stopping for water breaks but also if you encounter any problems on the trek.

The backpack should be suitable for the type of walk you plan to do. A day sack is fine for a short walk but the type of walking being discussed here is a larger pack designed for an overnight camp or even a week away camping.

You will need a good 6 to 8 foot lead and I prefer to use a ladder lead attached to a walky belt. There are some leads available now that also have a built in bungee and these are also good for trekking. The lead is also useful to stake out a dog so a police style lead with clips at both ends that allows for attachment to a tree is a good idea. I don’t recommend using a line (such as a snub or gangline) as this can burn through the hands.

I use a standard collar similar to the one I use on a rig so that the O ring is easy to get hold of. I don’t use chains, or semi-choke chain collars but a semi slip collar is fine. I do take a head collar (halti) with me for descents particularly if I’m going to be making a steep descent over difficult ground (for all the amount of training sometimes it is difficult if it is a steep descent on loose scree). I would also recommend a walky belt for hands free walking since I find this useful for looking at maps, getting water out for the dog and of course to take photos!

It is often useful to carry a spare lead in case of eventualities or if you are walking as a group for someone to have a spare lead. I pack dog boots just in case one of the dog’s feet gets injured. If I am doing an overnight camp then I take a tie out stake which I strap to my rucksack and a lightweight mallet to knock it in.

6. The trek route

If you are planning your own route, make sure you will have plenty of water stops. The hotter the weather the more frequently you will need to stop and if possible try to plan refreshment stops when you will have some shade. In the summer months backpacking needs to be approached sensibly but it doesn’t mean you have to stop altogether. Just get up early when it is still cool and shorten the route. Choose a route that allows lots of escape routes.

Remember to clean up after your dog, be polite to fellow walkers and follow the Countryside Code by remembering to close gates etc. Most forests and moorland prohibit the lighting of fires, and if you do light a fire on any other land do make sure it is properly extinguished. Take all your rubbish with you and leave the camp as you found it. If you need to go to the toilet then bury it.

It goes without saying but never allow your dog to run free on open land near to livestock. A Malamute’s prey instinct is so strong that the mere whiff of a sheep would mean he’s off and I wouldn’t fancy your abilities to recall him when trying to bring down the sheep for his dinner. Be considerate of others and respectful of wildlife. Be a responsible dog owner and remember that you are representing not only yourself but the breed. Embrace the “Leave No Trace” philosophy.

Have a map with you and compass just in case, and of course you will have already left a description of your route with someone else.

Take as many refreshment stops as you think your dog needs but this doesn’t mean stopping every five minutes as it is important to keep a steady pace. I would say stop every hour or so and watch for your dog becoming dehydrated and panting excessively. I carry a collapsible bowl and water canister attached to my rucksack, or the bowl can be packed in with the dog’s backpack. Another idea is to get your dog used to drinking from a water bottle with a pop up lid. If your dog appears hot then let him paddle in a stream, and take his backpack off so that he can lie down if he wants in the water to cool himself off. Let him rest a while and always check his pack before you start off again.

Don’t underestimate how much water you will need to take. Take plenty with you as you will be surprised how quickly you will get through it as it may not be readily available on the trek and planned streams stops might proof impossible if the steams have dried up over the summer. Learn how to check for signs of dehydration.

Dehydration is almost always easier to prevent than it is to treat. Still, early recognition of the problem gives the dog the greatest chance for a rapid and complete recovery. A dog's hydration status can be accurately assessed by a few quick observations. A well hydrated dog should have moist pink gums and its capillary refill time (CRT) should be less than one second. CRT is measured by timing how long it takes the white spot created by pressing a finger on the gum to return it its full pink colour once the finger is removed. Another simple test is to lift the skin over the withers or on top of the dog’s head up into a tent with your thumb and forefingers and see how long it takes the tented skin to flatten back into its normal position.

In a well hydrated dog the tent should disappear within 1-2 seconds. In mild to moderate dehydration gums will be slightly tacky, CRT may take 2-3 seconds, and tented skin can take 3 or more seconds to flatten out. Dehydration can become severe. In these cases the gums get very dry, CRT will take at least 3 seconds, it may take 5-10 seconds or longer for tented skin to flatten, and the eyes sink noticeably into their sockets. As dehydration progresses from the mild to the moderate and severe states, the dog's ability to correct the problem on its own diminishes. When advanced dehydration sets in dogs usually refuse to eat or drink. Such dogs need veterinary attention immediately since correction of moderate and severe dehydration usually requires intravenous administration of fluids.

Also it is important to take extra rations for your hard working dog. It is a good idea to have high energy snacks for him. If your dog has a tendency to suffer from muscle cramps after working (as one of mine does) I give him vitamin C to prevent cramps and re-hydrate using an electrolyte formula to replace essential minerals.

7. What to take with you

Personal kit list

Essential items are:-

1. Waterproof jacket and trousers (preferably breathable)

2. Broken in pair of good quality walking boots (or trail shoes but not trainers) with plenty of tread

3. Spare pair of walking socks

4. Fleece top or softshell jacket or warm layer

5. Head torch and whistle

6. Drinking bottle(s) or platypus/bladder which should be readily accessible

7. Small flask with hot beverage

8. Packed lunch for on the mountain/trail

9. Sit mat

10. Walking poles (optional)

11. Camera

12. Mobile phone (one person in the group)

13. Beer money

14. Sunglasses

15. Small first aid kit for you and your dog, and sunblock

16. Hat and gloves (dependent on time of year)

17. Towel for self and one for the dog

18. A medium sized adjustable/well fitting rucksack.

19. Spare batteries

If you are doing an overnight camp I would suggest the necessary items in addition to the above are :-

1. Rolled sleeping mat

2. Lightweight tent that sleeps up to two so you can share either with someone else or your dog. (We managed once to have two of us in a tent on the Old Man of Coniston and two dogs – it was tight but cosy!)

3. Sleeping bag (a minimum of two seasons one as it can be cold sleeping on high)

4. Camp food, for example Wayfarer ready meals or other boil in the bag foods as it is quick and high on calories

5. Gas cooker (this can be shared between 2-3 in the group)

6. Cooking pan (billy cans) and mug and cutlery set

7. Lighter or matches, preferably storm matches

8. Midge repellent

9. Spare set of clothing and 3 pairs of socks

10. Your rucksack will need to be capable of carrying 50 litres. Make sure it is adjustable and comfortable. If you have an old faithful that you trust then go with that.

All other maps, technical equipment and navigation aids will be carried by the instructor/guide. Depending on the route that has been organised it may be possible that overnight accommodation is being provided in a walkers hut so information will be given in advance of the trek if tents and other equipment do not need to be carried. Stake out poles may also be left at the campsite again dependent upon route, otherwise stakes needed to be carried on the rucksack. The instructor/guide will have a survival pack shelter and emergency kit.

Essential items to pack for your dog :

1. Collapsible water bowl and plenty of water for him – we use a bladder to carry water or you might be able to use an old wine box insides, otherwise a plastic bottle which is readily accessible.

2. Eating bowl (this could be the same as the collapsible water bowel)

3. Food for your dog. I feed a barf diet but this isn’t practical on an overnight so I tend to go for the Natures Diet sachets or dry kibble but whatever you feed him as long as it is a good quality high protein and high calorie sustaining meal which I divide as a breakfast and dinner.

4. High energy snacks for your dog during the day but nothing that will make him thirsty

5. A towel for him

6. A blanket for him to lie on at night (optional)

7. Spare lead and collar (optional)

8. Dog boots (may be carried as part of the group by the instructor/guide)

How you divide the equipment between the packs is really up to you but do not let your dog carry items that will dig into him. Carry matches and first aid kits in your rucksack. You will need to weigh each item including the pack itself. Before setting off on an organised trek with the AMCUK this will be done for you. Soft items must be on the inside of the pack next to the dog’s sides. I suggest the water bowl and water is left so that it can be accessed first. Before you load the back fit the backpack onto your dog and make sure that it fits so that the weight is over the dog’s shoulders rather than the mid back. Secure the straps.

Pack each side carefully using lots of padding near to the dog’s sides. One tip is to line the inside of the pack nearest the dog with a piece of foam or camping mat. Make sure that the pack is evenly balanced as you want to make absolutely certain that the pack rides properly for the safety and comfort of your dog.

8. Overall Rules and eligibility

The Working Pack Dog Program is open to all purebred Alaskan Malamute registered with the Kennel Club. Imported registered dogs are eligible. A copy of the dog’s registration papers submitted with the completed application form to validate they are a Malamute. Dogs are a minimum of eighteen months old at the time of all the pack trips.
The dog must carry a canine pack specifically designed for packing over long distances and capable (to the satisfaction of the scrutineer) to protect the dog from injury. The AMCUK reserve the right to refuse to take a dog if the scrutineer does not consider the pack is anatomically safe for use on the trek. In this instance, the scrutineer is defined as the instructor/guide.
Only one dog per handler.
A handler must be 18 years and above.
The dog must carry an initial weight equal to 30% of the dog’s body weight at the start of each day whether a single or a continuous multiple day hike (food and water should be replenished in the pack after each camp). The pack may be lightened during the course of travel due to the consumption of food, water, and other supplies (generally 30% maximum of the total weight is permissible through natural consumption). The pack itself is also included in the weight listing.
The AMCUK reserve the right to refuse to take a dog or handler if they are deemed unfit and incapable of completing the trek, although where practicably possible assistance will be given to disabled individuals. Medical conditions must be disclosed to the instructor/guide in writing in advance of the trek and will be treated in a confidential manner. Dogs must be fit and capable of carrying 30% of their body weight comfortably to the satisfaction of the scrutineer.
All pack trips must be completed on natural terrain such as hiking trails or cross country. Repeating a trail several times to accumulate mileage is not allowed. This allows you and your dog to experience multiple trails and conditions.
Working Pack Dog title

Option 1: A dog must pack a minimum of 30 miles. Each trip must be a minimum of 10 miles per day or an overnight camp out with a 5 miles in and 5 miles out. A minimum one trip to include an overnight camp out. Groups for overnight camps will be restricted to 10 participants.

Option 2: Dogs must pack a minimum of 40 miles. Each trip must be a minimum of 10 miles per day.

Elevation gain may be substituted for mileage: each 1000 feet of elevation gain may be counted as equivalent to one mile of flat terrain. Elevation gain may be calculated to the nearest 0.1 mile based on the lowest and highest elevation of each trip. Elevation gain is defined as the difference between the overall highest elevation and the overall lowest elevation. During multiple day hikes the elevation gain can be calculated for each day’s hike and not just for the complete trip, but each day’s section should be indicated on the map.
Any mileage walking along roads as part of your route must be subtracted from the total distance needed to complete the packing requirements.
Packing requirements shall be spread out over a minimum of two trips.
Total pack weight must be recorded and verified at the start of the pack trip, and include an itemized list of the contents and weight of individual items. Total pack weight equals the weight of the empty pack plus pack contents. The weight of the Alaskan Malamute should be recorded on the day prior to each trip. If this is not possible, a vet’s certificate attesting to the dog’s weight may be provided dated within 1 week of the hike.
An impartial observer must witness your progress and sign a WPD form as proof of completion. This can be the instructor/guide for your group but must be someone who is not taking part in a working title attempt themselves. Witness forms must be complete with the dog’s name, date, trail name, etc. in order to be accepted. Signatures attesting to your progress may be obtained from other hikers or any person you meet along the trail if you are not being guided. At least one witness must provide an address and telephone number for verification. Photographs may also be submitted for proof providing they include a suitable visual reference or landmark accurately defining the location of the photo. Witness forms are provided with the WPD application. Assistance will be given with paperwork completion when you are taking part in an AMCUK group trek.
There should be one map for each different hike and topographic maps are submitted with the WPD application form as proof of mileage and elevation gain, with the trail clearly marked with a coloured pen or highlighter. Each map is marked with the trip number, signed by the impartial observer and dated. If submitting multiple applications for several dogs maps may be shared with other applications submitted at the same time so that the applications can be considered as one unit.
A dog will be awarded a Working Pack Dog (WPD) certification if it is approved as being successful in completing either Option 1 or Option 2. The appropriate initials denominating the award may be used after the dog’s name.
A dog may qualify for a Working Pack Dog Excellent (WPDX) if it has previously been awarded the Working Pack Dog Title. A minimum of 120 miles additional pack miles are required to earn the Excellent title. Multiple day pack trips and overnight camping are necessary. At this advanced level the Working Dog Excellent program recognises superior achievement. The requirements here necessitate a more intense level of training and conditioning. The requirements are such that it may take several seasons of work to finish all the requirements.

9. Group trips

The AMCUK plan to have several trips a year using volunteer members of the club as guides and instructors.

The first of the planned overnight trips will take place over Easter 2008 weekend (meeting on Friday evening in the pub and to pack, and then walking on Saturday and Sunday). This will take place in the Lake District. I will be guiding that walk.

It is hoped that a second overnight trip will planned for May 2008 and this will take place either in Lancashire or the Yorkshire Dales on a route yet to be decided upon. I will also be guiding that walk.

It is hoped that over other regions further pack trips will be offered to members to ensure that each member has the opportunity to take part with their dog.

Names are being taken from interested parties and booking forms and details of the planned overnight routes will be sent out in early 2008. If you do not have some of the equipment listed then this can be hired from me at very little cost. I am a qualified mountain guide and outdoor pursuits instructor. Please register your interest in taking part with Joan Sheehan joan@amaqqut.co.uk 0797 4395564

Further 10 mile routes are being sought out and planned for those not wishing to camp out and information will be passed on as soon as these are finalised.

This guide however is intended to help you to get ready yourself and your dog in training ready to take up the challenge.

I am sure you will find backpacking with your dog an enjoyable experience. It a great social event to meet like minded people and happy dogs!

10. Costs

Charges will be kept to a minimum to cover costs incurred such as extra insurance (if needed), camping costs, application charges and out of pocket expenses. The cost of each trip will be given to the participants in advance.